Tuesday, May 01, 2007

2ft surf??

Tuesday1st May

After getting a few jobs knocked off this morning my wife, Louise, and I decided to get to the beach to try and catch some waves. What we expected to find was similar to Sundays fare, small clean waves and a light off shore wind. What we found instead was a wind so strong you had to be careful opening the car doors, or they would have been ripped off, and waves that were regularly over head high, and even the little ones seemed to be shoulder high, and a lightening fast close out that threatened to smash anything in it's path!
I really wanted to go for a surf, and I could see plenty of people trying, and many getting good beatings from the waves, but with only a longboard with me I knew it would all end in tears one way or the other! So unfortunately I had to lie around on the beach, sheltering from the wind, enjoying the sun, and watching a load of short boarders alternately ripping it up or getting epic beat down!

An unknown surfer tucks into the pit of a wave

Another big set rolls in


Another unknown surfer takes off on a big wave, with spray blowing 10 feet into the air


The same surfer lining up for a sharp exit, before the wave closes out on him

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